A Momentous Visit to Mahatma's Birthplace

Apart from the period of the Mahabharata war, the ancient and mythological city of Dwarka is deeply associated with Lord Krishna’s life during the pre-war and post-war times. After visiting the city, I boarded a private bus the next morning from Dwarka to Somnath, beginning my journey to Porbandar — a place I had long wished to visit.

My main purpose in visiting Porbandar was to see the ancestral house where Mahatma Gandhi was born and raised. However, I was also eager to explore other notable places in and around the town. So, I had set aside half a day for this visit. I planned to explore Porbandar till the afternoon, then proceed to the famous Somnath temple. After visiting the temple, I intended to travel a few more kilometres to Veraval, from where I had to catch a night train to Gandhinagar, the capital of Gujarat. Therefore I left Dwarka at eight in the morning and reached Porbandar around ten.

Three Memorials that Captivated a Dancer’s Heart

My first stop was the museum dedicated to Dr. Savita Didi Mehta, the famous Manipuri dancer who once served as the principal of Aryakanya Gurukul in Porbandar. Dance was the breath of her life; along with her own accomplishments, she had trained many disciples and enriched the art form. The museum displays not only her personal and professional belongings but also rare items reflecting the art, literature, culture, and lifestyle of Saurashtra and Gujarat.

Just as I was about to leave, the young curator — upon learning that I had come all the way from Karnataka — said, “We have a ten-minute documentary about Dr. Savita Didi’s life and achievements. If you have time, I can show it to you.” I was the first visitor of the day, arriving amid light drizzle. She kindly took me into the small gallery and screened the documentary just for me. I thanked both the legendary dancer and the young woman who introduced her to me.

Nearby was the Bharat Mandir, another site worth visiting. It’s a large, pillar-filled hall with no interior walls. Its uniqueness lies in the paintings of great figures from Indian history and mythology depicted on its pillars — sages, kings, saints, and spiritual leaders from ancient and medieval India.

Naturally, I looked to see if anyone from South India was represented, but was disappointed not to find Basavanna, Akka Mahadevi, Thiruvalluvar, or any South Indian kings. History here, it seems, means North Indian history, and religion and culture mean North Indian religion and culture. After a walk around the temple and taking a photo near the statues of a few freedom fighters outside, I left.
Opposite stood the Nehru Planetarium, which was closed that day. Having already seen several planetariums — including at Anand Bhavan in Prayagra and one in Kolkata— I didn’t mind. I took a photo from outside and moved on.

The Grand “Hari Mandir” of Wealthy Devotion

Next, I went to the massive Hari Mandir on the outskirts of town. It’s as magnificent as any large temple elsewhere in India — a place that makes you realize that “devotion is not the poor man’s privilege; it’s the rich man’s luxury.” As I entered amid steady rain, the sounds of bhajans filled the air. Inside, hundreds of devotees, along with musical instruments, were singing devotional songs in unison before the idol of Lord Hari. In a nearby hall, special Navaratri prayers and bhajans were being held.

After listening for a while and offering my respects, I left the temple premises to visit Gandhiji’s birthplace, which was my primary goal in Porbandar. When I asked my guide to take me there, he said, “That memorial remains open all day, sir. Let’s visit Sudama Mandir nearby first.” I agreed.

“Sudama Mandir” — A Temple Turned Dog Shelter
The Sudama Mandir, named after Krishna’s friend Sudama, lies in the heart of the city, about 150 km from Dwarka. By the time we headed there, the drizzle had turned into heavy rain. Since I hadn’t brought an umbrella, I had to buy one — and amusingly, within five minutes of purchase, the rain eased up! Perhaps my umbrella scared it away, I thought.

The temple itself is old and poorly maintained. One section is functional, with idols and ongoing worship, but another adjoining building is dilapidated. Stray dogs lay sleeping everywhere, and the place was quite filthy. The only pleasing sight was a beautiful statue in the garden depicting Krishna embracing Sudama lovingly. I took a photo and left, carefully avoiding the beggars at the entrance — which was no small feat! Because of the weather, I skipped some other nearby sites and headed directly to Kirti Mandir, Gandhi’s birthplace — the true purpose of my visit.

“Kirti Mandir” — The Home Where Bapu Was Born

As you may know, Kirti Mandir is the ancestral home where Mahatma Gandhi was born and raised. Having read his Autobiography in my youth, I was deeply moved by his descriptions of his parents, the Kathiawad region, and his early moral struggles — stealing money, seeking forgiveness, and caring for his ailing father. So, visiting this home was something I eagerly looked forward to. Even as I arrived in light rain, workers were busy erecting a canopy in the courtyard — preparations for the upcoming Gandhi Jayanti event. From afar, the building looks more like a temple than a house, with a tall, gopuram-like structure.

Inside are a few household items, clothing, and photos from Gandhi’s childhood. One room marks the exact spot where Gandhi was born, with a plaque outside identifying it. The experience of walking through those rooms felt profound and humbling. Upstairs are several empty rooms — narrow wooden staircases lead to them. With thoughtful restoration, this could easily become a museum like Kuvempu’s house in Kuppali in Karnataka.

Kasturba’s Home — A Place Full of Sentiment

Behind Kirti Mandir, connected by a narrow lane, stands another house — the birthplace of Kasturba Gandhi. Many visitors overlook it, but it is historically significant. In his autobiography, Gandhi candidly describes his marital relationship, admitting he wasn’t always the best husband. They had their share of quarrels — once, in anger, he even dragged her by the hair and threw her out, a story that still lingers painfully in memory.

The caretaker at Kasturba’s home kindly guided me through every room. The spot where she was born is marked with a swastika symbol, and a portrait of her hangs on the wall. The house, like Gandhi’s, is a multi-storied structure with small, windowless rooms but clever ventilation for natural light. There are wall niches for lamps and hidden compartments for valuables — and, remarkably, an ancient rainwater harvesting system where small channels carry rainwater to a courtyard well. Seeing the depth of that well amazed me!

Since there was no place for writing a note in the visitor book here, I just left my name. But at Gandhi’s house, I wrote a few lines expressing my joy and fulfillment before bowing again to the statues of Gandhi and Kasturba.

The Gujarati Meal Experience

By then, it was lunchtime. My auto driver asked, “Shall I take you to the bus stand, or do you want to see anything else?” I decided to have lunch first and then go. At a nearby hotel, I ordered a Gujarati thali. Being a vegetarian, I usually have trouble finding suitable food in India’s eastern coastal regions, where non-vegetarian dishes dominate. But in the western coastal states — Gujarat, Rajasthan, Punjab — vegetarian food is plentiful.

I expected a simple meal with two chapatis and rice, but the waiter kept serving more — six rotis in total — each time with fresh vegetable palya (sabji). I couldn’t bear to waste food, so I struggled to finish everything! When he finally asked, “Shall I bring the rice now?” I exclaimed, “Oh God, no more!” and left with a smile.

At the Porbandar bus stand, I still had half an hour before my bus to Somnath.I wandered around, admiring wall murals depicting major events from Gandhi’s life. Despite the light rain, my half-day visit to Porbandar had filled me with immense satisfaction.

Dr. Rajendra Buradikatti
03–10–2025